When I speak about bespoke clothing, what it means, where it comes from, a common theme emerges in the natural flow of the conversation. I propose, "Have you ever bought your size and it suddenly didn't fit the same?"
The secret is, there is no industry standard when it comes to the fashion industry. Every house, every designer, every tailor, has a different way of measuring the human body. Seems straight forward enough, a tape measure can't be too far off, right?
Along that journey, many people turn away from formalwear because it seems suits are destined for the Secret Agent, The Hollywood Elite, or Executive Businessmen and Politicians. Admit it, suits fascinate you like few other things and a well-chosen suit has a dramatic effect on how you look and how you feel.
On the same token, if you make a wrong choice, you can end up looking frumpy and like a bit of an oddball. Let's begin.
The Four Average Body Types
Now, generally speaking, there are four body types: Tall, Short, Heavy and Muscular. Everyone subjectively falls and fits into one of the four descriptions. Amongst those lies a variety of complex and unique forms and curves, proportions and shape that make up the human body. Each vessel unique. So, how do we craft perfectly so?
Of course, there is the average body type, but we will keep that out of this discussion for convenience. We can argue all day what is average and still come to the conclusion that no two are the same, as similar as we are.
The logic while choosing the perfect suit is to create the proper balance. Think of how well-arranged stuff, minimalist settings and vertical stripes make a small room appear big. That is called striking a balance. Each of our average body types have opportunities for us to highlight or exclude the feature we wish to promote.
It is imperative for us to be clear that these are merely guidelines and we believe that each of our clients are perfect, and that is why we craft to their unique physique and proportions. We welcome you to join us in exploring that experience by scheduling a consultation with one of our bespoke clothiers.
Now, the struggle with the tall, is that tall people naturally appear more slim and should I say it, sometimes lanky. Thus, their suits should add width to their appearance. A two-button suit paired with a 4 or 5 button vest will help break up the torso area. As displayed in the picture above, this double breasted vest sits higher on the torso than the jacket does, which assists in providing a shorter appearance. Avoiding pinstripes will help tremendously, and seeking out either traditional solid suits with a subtle texture or patterned suits such as glen plaids and prince of wales will help widen the tall and slim body type.
- Suits For The Short
It is easy to infer that the dynamics for the short would be the exact opposite of suits meant for the tall. The lapels should be high and buttons should be cut low; a low-button stance offers an illusion of height. Also a fully-buttoned suit gives the short more gravity. Avoiding a vest and having a wide open canvas in the chest area for your tie, cravat, or bow tie. Pinstripe and chalk stripe suits are great choices for the shorter man as they will draw the eye into a suggestion height.
Heavy people generally wish for the suit to mask their curves and will end up purchasing larger sizes to do so. Please don't do this! Buying a suit larger than you need will make you appear more boxy and look disheveled; purchase a suit tailored to your unique body style. The perfect drape of fine fabric over your broad chest is beautiful to see. It is so easy to lose yourself in trying to hide your imperfections, but I have found that highlighting your best features will give you more joy in your wear. Your body is truly a canvas and you have a wonderful opportunity to channel your inner character. Dynamic fabrics with texture, and subtle patterning will allow you to accessorize in a multitude of ways. Lastly, your accouterments do a great job of adding to the overall appearance. Choose the pieces that reflect your personality and have fun.
Suits for Bodybuilders & Muscular People
Muscular people have worked hard and have created a body that looks charming in suits. Humans of muscle should take care not to wear suits too large, which makes them appear more bulky than they are. Properly tailored suits will show off the V-shape of the back into the obliques. Windowpane and pinstripe fabrics look fantastic on muscular gents. When tying a tie, ensure to have a large knot, like the Full Windsor. Use your canvas well, you have a well defined and crafted area to highlight luxurious cloth and accessories.
Thus, while suit shopping, keep these tips in mind. Making the wrong selection can seriously hamper your look and make you look awkwardly taller, shorter or heavier in respect of your body type. Read your body type with diligence and then make your choice. Of course, you can always schedule an appointment and allow our Bespoke Clothier and Master Tailors help you pick the correct options for your body type.